Duggars Laundry soap recipe: - Page 4
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  1. #46
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    I tried buying everything and could not find the washing soda and when i found it on line with shipping it was cheaper for me to buy brand name laundry soap. But i did find at the dollar tree laundry soap, i been using that with there fabric softener and dryer sheets and this works great clothes aren't fading and smell nice.

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    Registered User schellie69's Avatar
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    -Stir and fill a used, clean, laundry soap dispenser half full with soap and then fill rest of way with water. Shake before each use. (will gel)

    This it were to says to fill the jug it just says dispenser after you make it take an old laundry jug fill it half way add water to fill and you now make it into 10 gallons, it was a little confusing I have used the soap right out to the bucket I made it in when I have had really bad dirty smelly cloths you just use like 1/8th a cup a little more depending on how dirty. I found the washing soda at our local chain grocery store. I love this stuff it works great and DH figured that it cost just 1 penny for 3 loads now that's cheap.

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    We made this at a ladies meeting at church. Everyone loves this detergent.
    A few other tips: Many bakeries (especially Wal-Mart and Sams) will give you their empty 5 gallon buckets that icing comes in for free. Just ask.
    Also, Lowes will give you the extra long, strong wooden paint stir sticks if you ask. I keep one hanging in the laundry room for this project.
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  4. #49
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    Default time savers for this laundry soap recipe...

    first, my arm gave out half way through grating the fels-naptha... so i heated it in the microwave for about 15 to 30 seconds and it was warm and soft. it grated like a dream.

    secondly, i decided to make the powdered version (to save on lifting and storage space). when i mixed all the ingredients the grated soap seemed to stay on top. i couldn't picture getting an even mix of the three ingredients. i had mixed it in a large, tall pickle jar. i then attacked it with my hand blender. i blended all sides of the jar. this turned my mixture into an even powdery consistency. it is staying uniformly mixed now. hope that helps!

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    Moderator nuisance26's Avatar
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    ~I made some detergent, using this liquid recipe and started using it the first week of April. I was unsure if one Zote bar was equal to a Fels Naptha bar since the FN is a much smaller bar(5.5oz) so I guessed they were equal products bar to bar not ounce to ounce. I made 1/5 a recipe since I only had a one gallon jug to store the jelled concentrate.

    3oz grated Zote(bars are 14oz)
    1/5 cup washing soda
    1.5 TB borax
    6.5 ounces water

    I am very, VERY happy with it. It smells great, cleans great and is even cheaper than the loss-leader bottles I used to buy.
    I didn't think this recipe would save me money since I was using just 4 bottles of detergent a year that I generally purchased for $1.50-2 each($6-8 yearly cost for about 260 loads).
    But after buying my ingredients at Walmart(washing soda $3 box, borax $7 box and Zote $1)and figuring how many batches I could get out of them, I discovered that it costs less than $.01 a load(X 260 loads= $2.60 yearly cost projected) for the homemade detergent. The savings may seem small but other advantages are less shopping, hauling, plastic bottle waste, dyes, perfumes and chemicals.
    I highly recommend that people try this recipe!~

  6. #51
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    Made laundry detergent last weekend. Pathmark carries washing soda. That is where we found it. Got the borax at Whole Foods a few years ago. It was cheap 1 or 2 dollars. I used dove soap because I have allergies and eczema. So far, so good. The recipe I found online said use the soap you have. Making it was fun and not hard at all. I would do it again.

  7. #52
    Moderator Luckybustert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stewardofHisstuff View Post
    first, my arm gave out half way through grating the fels-naptha... so i heated it in the microwave for about 15 to 30 seconds and it was warm and soft. it grated like a dream.

    secondly, i decided to make the powdered version (to save on lifting and storage space). when i mixed all the ingredients the grated soap seemed to stay on top. i couldn't picture getting an even mix of the three ingredients. i had mixed it in a large, tall pickle jar. i then attacked it with my hand blender. i blended all sides of the jar. this turned my mixture into an even powdery consistency. it is staying uniformly mixed now. hope that helps!
    That's a good idea about heating it in the microwave. I experienced the same thing with arm giving out while grating the bar Ivory soap I use in place of the fels-naptha. So I just put it through the food processor and that works well for me.

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    never thought about using an Ivory soap bar. Any reason why using Fels Naptha would be that much better?
    No spend days: J 9/16
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  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by mauimagic View Post
    never thought about using an Ivory soap bar. Any reason why using Fels Naptha would be that much better?
    None that I'm aware of. I chose to use the Ivory instead of the Fels Naptha because I have extremely sensitive skin. And I'm very satisfied with the way the Ivory works. I figure as long as it's soap, it probably doesn't matter all that much.....kind of like how there are several different varieties of laundry soaps on the store shelves, kwim?

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    Moderator mauimagic's Avatar
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    Perfect timing for this since I am almost out of laundry detergent and out of Fels Naptha, but have a good supply of Ivory Soap bars!!
    No spend days: J 9/16
    Monthly exercise: J 165/930
    Monthly savings: J-202, F-186,M-170,A-154, M-137, J-118, J-102, A-86, S-70, O-54, N-38, D-28

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    Quote Originally Posted by mauimagic View Post
    never thought about using an Ivory soap bar. Any reason why using Fels Naptha would be that much better?
    Fels Naptha used to contain Naptha (a great cleaning chemical) but it has been removed because it's a nerve toxin. Fels Naptha DOES contain petrochemicals because it's also designed to be used on clothes, rather than as a bath bar. Those petrochemicals contribute some surfactants for doing laundry. I'd suggest ZOTE instead of Fels Naptha because it contains optical brighteners to help keep your whites looking white, and it's a lot less expensive than Fels Naptha. ZOTE is also designed to be used on laundry.

    Almost any kind of bar soap can be used in homemade laundry mixtures, but not all of them work the same, or very well, ON laundry, and may require add-ins like OxyClean to clean stains. Bath bars than contain a lot of moisturizer (Dove, Caress, etc.) will not be as effective, and can also contribute to some other problems from the high amount of fat. They are not good at removing oil from fabrics. Watch out for ring-around-the-collar or cuffs and use shampoo to pre-treat those imbedded body oils/dirt. Shampoo is designed to remove oil.

    There IS a huge difference between detergents and soaps. Detergent is more effective on laundry because of the surfactants in it. These surfactants are less sensitive when used in hard water. Soap will form a film in hard water, as well as leave a soap scum on laundry and may require more rinses. Soap also works best in hot water, not cold.

    There are oleochemicals (derived from fat) in bath bars. These are NOT designed to clean laundry and may actually "gum-up" your washer and contribute to mold formation, especially if used in cold water washes and front-loading washers. These same fats can also go rancid in your clothes, especially when they have been in storage (such as off-season clothing), and those fats oxidize and start smelling "off".

    Bath bars are missing things like corrosion inhibitors, enzymes, optical brighteners and chleating agents present in detergents. Using soap on your laundry will reduce the life of clothes because of soap build-up. Soap build-up is like adding sandpaper to the fibers.

    Soap is not good for removing stains classified as "tannin stains":
    -alcoholic beverages
    -beer
    -berries (cranberries, raspberries, strawberries, etc.)
    -coffee/tea
    -cologne
    -felt-tip water color pen or washable ink
    -fruit juice (apple, grape, orange)
    -soft drinks
    -vegetable juice

    Nor is it good for removing oil-based stains:
    -automotive oil
    -hair oil
    -bacon grease
    -hand lotion
    -cooking oil
    -grease
    -mayonnaise
    -suntan oil
    -face creams

    Enzymes work best for protein stains:
    -food
    -milk
    -blood
    -mud
    -urine/feces
    -vomit
    -gelatin

    These stains will require pretreatment with a heavy-duty liquid detergent or petroleum-based solvent and pretreatment products if you use a soap mixture.

  12. #57
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    Is anyone having an issue with keeping 100% cotton white garments bright? I don't think this soap is to blame as I had this issue when I used Tide as well. Any tips on how to keep white clothes bright?

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    Quote Originally Posted by PplAmanda View Post
    Is anyone having an issue with keeping 100% cotton white garments bright? I don't think this soap is to blame as I had this issue when I used Tide as well. Any tips on how to keep white clothes bright?
    Use bluing. Bright white clothes actually have blue dye in them. The more you wash the clothes, the more you wash the blue dye out. You can buy bluing in the laundry area. I usually have to look for it. It is in a small blue bottle and is usually way up high or way down low. I use a few drops in the softener dispenser. Don't put it directly on the clothes or use a lot because it will stain.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PplAmanda View Post
    Is anyone having an issue with keeping 100% cotton white garments bright? I don't think this soap is to blame as I had this issue when I used Tide as well. Any tips on how to keep white clothes bright?
    1. Do you wash your whites in cold water?

    Martha Stewart had this to say on the subject....

    Wash whites separately: The best way to retain whiteness is to launder white items together in the hottest water the fabric will tolerate (water that is at least 120°F is most effective at removing soil). Choose detergent with a bleach alternative and/or enzymes, using the maximum amount recommended.

    2. Do you have hard water?

    If your water is high in iron (look for reddish stains in the shower and toilet), launder with an iron-removing product (such as Iron Out - Summit Brands | Maker of Super Iron Out®). Don't use chlorine bleach if you have water with a high iron content because it will cause whites to yellow - use oxygen bleach. It may only be possible to get whites pristine white by adding water softener to both the wash and rinse cycles.

    3. If you have hard water it may be necessary to use MORE detergent. White clothes may turn gray if there isn't enough soap or detergent or if clothes are not thoroughly rinsed.

    To get clothes white again, follow this procedure from "Getting Clothes Clean" - guide C-503 -

    *Wash the clothes again in hot water.

    *Add enough water softener to make the water feel slippery (about 1-cup).

    *If the water becomes sudsy, the clothes were not rinsed enough. Wash them again adding only water softener.

    *If the clothes do not whiten, add soap or detergent and rewash.

    4. Whites aren't stark white. Over time they can return to their more natural cotton color.

    5. Bleach whites in sunlight by hanging them on the clothesline.

    6. Add a cup of 3% hydrogen peroxide to your whites wash in place of bleaches. Hydrogen peroxide tips

    "Dry oxygen bleaches contain ingredients that become hydrogen peroxide, and liquid oxygen bleaches are simply hydrogen peroxide and stabilizers. These are not chlorine bleaches and are preferable for the environment because they naturally degrade into oxygen and water." When you "bleach" with oxygen bleach, the hotter the water, the less time it takes for the bleach to work its magic. If your hot water is lower than 130°F, you may find you need to do a pre-soak of your whites in the oxygen bleach for it to work on your whites. Pre-soaking is a lost art....

    7. Already mentioned, optical brighteners, like bluing. Bluing doesn't whiten the fabric, it just covers it up with a dye and "fools the eye". The blue dyes of optical brighteners absorb UV light and reflect high-frequency blue light which our eyes interpret as bright white. It doesn't do anything to remove hard water residue and soap scum that usually cause.

    8. To brighten whites if you don't have hard water, add either 1/2 c. of borax or washing soda to a medium load of laundry.

    Good luck... if one hint doesn't do the trick, perhaps another will.

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    Registered User Megareader's Avatar
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    I have quite a few laundry jugs but they are full. I've stocked up when I come across a sale. I think I'll keep the empties and then when I have 4 or 5, make a batch of the Duggar detergent. I'll start keeping an eye out for the ingredients. Save money and re-use laundry jugs? Sounds like a good idea to me!
    Never underestimate the power of frugality!

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