Adjusting laundry detergent recipe for hard water

[threestrands]

One website I found with several recipes for homemade laundry detergent indicates that if one has hard water, or well water, it might be necessary to adjust the proportions of the ingredients. I have very hard, iron-heavy well water, but I do have a water softener in the house. I haven't tried the detergent recipes yet. Not being a chemist, I have no idea what might need to be adjusted if it doesn't seem to be working well--more soda? more soap? Does anyone know?

[Grainlady]

If you have a whole-house water softener, you will have much better luck with homemade laundry soap than those who have hard water. Some people get fine results using 2 T. homemade laundry detergent, while people with hard water may have to up the amount to as much as 1/2 cup.

From experience and research on the subject, you should expect a soap build-up over time, and possibly some graying of whites. That's just the characteristic of using natural soap over chemical detergents. Something I read recently, "...soap causes the fabric to deterorate while leaving an odor". This is possible from build-up as well as the fats used in soap products going rancid. Something I experience when off-season clothing were in storage - the fats in the soap used in the mixtures would go rancid.

FYI - If you have a lot of iron in your water, don't use bleach on your whites because it reacts with iron and can cause holes in your clothing.

You don't say if you are using a top-loader or front-loader. You may find homemade laundry soap isn't as effective in front-loaders, or produces too much suds resulting in multiple rinses. You may want to add white vinegar to the rinse to help remove soap residue.

The soap made from natural fats can foster mold-growth in front-loaders. If you are using a new front-loader washing machine, using a non-approved laundry soap/detergent can void your warranty. I'd check with the manufacturer for more information.

If you are using cold water for the wash that is colder than 65°F, both homemade laundry soap and commercial detergents will be inneffective. Detergent manufacturers and care labels define cold water as 80-85°F.

I used ZOTE for the soap in my homemade mixtures because it's much cheaper and it also contains some optical whiteners to help keep whites looking white. ZOTE is designed to be used for laundry. It's also a fraction of the cost of Fels Naptha and ZOTE has a nice citronella smell.

After a number of months using homemade laundry soap, I'd have to switch to a regular detergent to brighten clothes again and remove soap build-up.

Make sure you are careful to pretreat clothes washed in homemade laundry soap. Homemade laundry soap doesn't contain enzymes that help remove stains. I used to add some Cascade Dishwasher Powder to add some enzymes to the mixture.

It will also take several washings to rid your clothing of the detergent you are using now, so it may take a month or two before you see the real results on your laundry using homemade laundry soap.

If you are doing laundry for babies or young children, homemade laundry soap may remove the fire retardant properties on the fabrics, if that is a concern.

[old_lady_in_the_shoe]

most of the time, there is borax added to homemade laundry soap...and the borax is what helps to soften the water...softer water allows the soaps to "work better" and so you laundry looks cleaner...
so I think you need to add more borax. here is some info on it too.

20 Mule Team® Borax is made of 100% Borax, a naturally occurring mineral composed of sodium, boron, oxygen and water. 20 Mule Team® Borax is not harmful to washing machines, plumbing or septic tanks and does not contain phosphates or chlorine.

In Regular Wash

Add ½ cup of 20 Mule Team® Borax to each wash load along with the recommended amount of detergent. For large capacity and front-loading machines, add ¾ cup.

Pre-Soaking Stains

Add one tablespoon of 20 Mule Team® Borax per gallon of water or ½ cup in washer. Pre-soak for at least 30 minutes before washing.

Hard Water

Got hard water? 20 Mule Team® Borax works great as a water conditioner, helping your detergent to work more effectively. Add ½ cup of 20 Mule Team® Borax along with your regular laundry detergent. You'll get clean, fresh smelling laundry


So, I would say no chemistry involved, lol just add more borax.

[ladykemma2]

from a chemist point of view. i have not tried the recipe because i have water so hard it has to be chipped out of the tap.

I would add a few cups of salt (sodium chloride) to the mix.

[ladykemma2]

to quote Betty McDonald in "The Egg and I"

"The water was so hard it should have been chipped out of the spring and even when mixed 40-60 with soap produced nothing but a greasy scum and after a day scrubbing clothes in that liquid mineral I could peel the skin off my hands like gloves."

[Grainlady]

to quote Betty McDonald in "The Egg and I"

"The water was so hard it should have been chipped out of the spring and even when mixed 40-60 with soap produced nothing but a greasy scum and after a day scrubbing clothes in that liquid mineral I could peel the skin off my hands like gloves."

That's one of my all-time favorite books!!!

Another add-in to soften water for both homemade laundry soap and detergents is "STPP" - Sodium Tripolyphosphate.

What is it? http://ths.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/l...601018823.html

You'll probably have to order it on line: one source - The Chemistry Store.com

http://www.chemistrystore.com/cart.c...41&child=49962