Questions about sizing on Misses' dress pattern

**monkeywrangler71** · 06-12-2008, 10:46 PM

I'm feeling confused

I don't think I've made myself a dress or top in about 15 years. I am a little thrown off by the sizing.

First, is the sizing of patterns significantly different than store-bought clothing? By my measurements I should be making a dress about 4 sizes larger than I would typically buy. Does that sound right?

Also, the pattern itself has a line drawn on the bust that says 40" while the package says the body measurement at the bust is 34". The instructions say this is body measurement + wearing ease + design ease. Do I really need an extra 6 inches around the bust? That seems a bit extreme. I don't want to look like I'm wearing a tent.

Advice?

**Lady_V** · 06-12-2008, 11:25 PM

Anyway you can take a pic of the template? I am sure there are others who can give you awesome advice, but I want to make sure the patterns up there are like the ones down here

**Ilovesewing** · 06-13-2008, 12:55 AM

For my size I find RTW and pattern sizes drastically different. You should sew the size by measurements, not your RTW size. This may be two different sizes - one size for above the waist and another for below the waist. However, you might want to make a muslin first of the size you plan on making so you can see how it comes out, then make adjustments from there. I made a dress once that really did look like a tent. It was pathetic.

**monkeywrangler71** · 06-13-2008, 08:39 AM

This is the pattern:
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M8108.htm

I'm thinking now that it needs all this 'ease' because it's a pullover, and if it fits too close I wouldn't get it down over my shoulders. It's only a 1 hour dress (which is about 5 hours for me

) so I think you're right, I should do a mock up first and then make adjustments.

**Frugal Nurse** · 06-13-2008, 08:47 AM

That's a really cute dress.

I had training as a patternmaker- went to school four years for it- before I decided I prefer it to be a hobby.
Besides, I was too young at that time to know what I really wanted.

I know exactly what you're talking about but I can't offer any advice or wisdom.

But good luck! and have fun sewing it.

I love sewing and creating clothing.

Cheer- ree- o

**Michelle** · 06-13-2008, 09:05 AM

RTW sizes and pattern sizes are often vastly different. Measure yourself and go off of the measurements on the pattern's envelope. My pattern size is 2 sizes larger when sewing the "big 3" companies' patterns (big 3 = Simplicity, McCall's, and Butterick).

I've had the best luck with fitting using Kwik Sew patterns...their sizing is more compatible with RTW sizes, but I still recommend going off of your measurements.

And the PP is right...making a muslin is often the best way to go so you can make adjustments where you need to.

Good luck!

**Michelle** · 06-13-2008, 09:07 AM

Originally Posted by Frugal Nurse

That's a really cute dress.

I had training as a patternmaker- went to school four years for it- before I decided I prefer it to be a hobby.
Besides, I was too young at that time to know what I really wanted.

I know exactly what you're talking about but I can't offer any advice or wisdom.

But good luck! and have fun sewing it.

I love sewing and creating clothing.

Cheer- ree- o

Wait a sec...why can't you offer any advice or wisdom if you were trained in pattern making? I would think you'd be the best person to offer advice in this case

**suki** · 06-13-2008, 09:11 AM

It always frustrates me that patterns are so much different than RTW sizing... but, they are. Mom taught me to always go by the measurements and trust the pattern.

**nuisance26** · 06-13-2008, 09:44 AM

~I shortcut the mock-up piece by laying a piece of ready-wear clothing on the pattern to check for correct sizing. If you have something that fits well or is a similar style you can use it to judge whether or not to alter the pattern. It's been my experience that pattern ease is much too generous. I always check and make my pieces smaller than indicated. I kinda wonder if the pattern makers think I'm lying when I choose a size to make based on my measurements...~

**suki** · 06-13-2008, 09:50 AM

Seems I recall mom saying that one brand was better/worse about this than another.

**Ilovesewing** · 06-13-2008, 10:19 AM

Uh oh! That dress is exactly like the one i made that came out looking like a tent! No kidding!!! Definitely make a muslin before you cut your good fabric.

One hour patterns don't have a lot of fitting to them so they tend to have lots of ease, very drapey. If you had to do a lot of fitting with darts, tucks and gathering, it would take more than an hour!

That pattern probably runs very big. Do make a practice one first

**monkeywrangler71** · 06-13-2008, 12:44 PM

Originally Posted by Ilovesewing

Uh oh! That dress is exactly like the one i made that came out looking like a tent! No kidding!!! Definitely make a muslin before you cut your good fabric.

Yup, it's a tent alright

I don't think I could get it over my head/shoulders though without all the extra space. I think what I will do is make it two sizes smaller, but instead of putting the center back on the fold I will add a seam allowance, then put a zipper down the back so I can get into it.

Although the tent version may not be too bad in a rayon.

I just want something light and loose (but not ridiculous) to wear around the house. It gets so hot here in the summer.

**santoria** · 06-13-2008, 02:31 PM

I just made a dress a lot like that one

i made it to size for the measurements on the envelope..then I added a dart in the back and increased the dart on the front - to fit me better.

**larabelle** · 06-27-2008, 08:17 AM

Originally Posted by monkeywrangler71

Yup, it's a tent alright

I don't think I could get it over my head/shoulders though without all the extra space. I think what I will do is make it two sizes smaller, but instead of putting the center back on the fold I will add a seam allowance, then put a zipper down the back so I can get into it.

I am so glad that you made it because I have the same pattern although I have never made it and I always wondered if it would end up being a tent. I am a size #6 and very short waisted I find that many patterns end up being tents on me. I agree that their is alot of ease in patterns and they are just to long for me. I am getting in the habit of making a muslin of each pattern first before I use my expensive fabric. I am getting into the sewing itch but I think that I will make a couple summer jumpers.