Bound buttonholes

**quiltergirl** · 09-05-2008, 08:11 AM

I need a refresher on making bound buttonholes. An online article/tutorial would be my preference. I've been looking but haven't really found what I'm looking for. I found a video but I'm on a dial up internet connection so video doesn't work very well.

I've decided to make myself a coat and it's been a long time since I've done any serious tailoring and over 30 years since I took the class. I really want to make bound buttonholes for this and I remember the basics, but need a refresher in some of the the finer points.

Anybody?

**sunshine** · 09-05-2008, 09:15 AM

when I first learned to sew, I used my grandmother's sewing machine. It didn't have a zig zag stitch, so all my button holes were bound. I later learned that doing bound button holes increased the value of a garment and gave it a more "tailored" look.

http://sewing.about.com/od/technique...buttonhole.htm

http://www.lubbockmetro.com/sewnsew/PDF/MayJune01.pdf

http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?...uttonhole.html

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/na_sew...277276,00.html

**quiltergirl** · 09-05-2008, 11:55 AM

Thank you for replying sunshine. I really didn't think anyone would -- I don't seem to be very popular around here right now.

I do have a question. Many, many years ago we used organza to create the "window" of the buttonhole and the "lips" were created seperately and sew in. Have things changed? Everything I've found so far used a "self fabric facing" to make both the opening and the lips from the same piece of fabric. Is this how you learned to do it? Is it easier? It looks like it might be once I get the hang of it. Even if I try this I will probably still use something lightweight like organza for the "window" in the back side (lining) since this is a reversible coat and the other side is fleece.

I agree about bound buttonholes making certain garments look so much more professional. This is a reversible coat made from heavy decorator fabric and fleece. I wouldn't try to put buttonholes in this thing any other way. I had thought about modifying the pattern and using a reversible separating zipper instead -- I was thinking mostly warmth. But every coat I have ever had with a zipper has been a problem. I have trouble getting the coat caught in the zipper. I'd also thought about trying button loops to get around the buttonhole issue altogether. But I really think the bound buttonholes are the way to go.

The pattern calls for machine buttonholes so no help there.

It has been a long time since I've made a coat and probably wouldn't normally consider it cost efficient. But all I've spent on this thing for materials is around $15. I had to buy fleece and buttons -- fortunately both were on sale. I already had the decorator fabric on hand. I know my time has value but right now time is something I have plenty of so no big there. There's not a lot of heavy duty tailoring to it -- just a basic simple kind of bulky coat with a hood and cuffs. I think I can still manage that -- if I can remember the buttonhole thing or re-learn how to make them the "new" way. I'll play around with it later and see what I can come up with.

Thanks for the help.

**sunshine** · 09-05-2008, 12:15 PM

I always used the same fabric as the garment I was making , although on a few garments, I used a contrasting fabric to add interest. I'm old, so don't know when/if things changed. . . or if there has always been various ways to do things.

I think your coat sounds fabulous. . . I hope you post a picture when you get it finished!

**cheapskate 49** · 09-05-2008, 01:09 PM

I haven't made bound buttonholes for years but I would use the same fabric especially for a coat.I think a different fabric would be a 'funky' look-which would be fine if that's they look you want.I have a vogue sewing book I bought it about 30years ago and it is still a great resource,perhaps your library has a copy or something similar.
Good luck on your coat and please post a pic when finished

**quiltergirl** · 09-05-2008, 03:54 PM

I'm not very good at explaining things like this -- that's why there are no patterns for my original sewing projects.

But what I will call the lips -- the fabric that fills in the little box -- where the button slips through was from the same fabric as the coat. But we used organza to create the little window in the coat, cut the "x" and turned the organza to the inside and pressed it. Then we centered the "lips" (made from the coat fabric) in the window. The part I can't remember is how they were attached. Using the organza to make the window instead of the garment fabric eliminated some of the bulk. But we didn't have a book for tailoring class so maybe this was a personal preference thing for the teacher.

What I am finding now is that both the "box" and the "lips" are made of one piece of the garment fabric. It was a little confusing at first because it was different. I thought maybe things had changed, but apparantly not. There must have just been more than one way to make bound butttonholes. I think I can figure it out -- I may end up making 10 bound buttonholes before I get to the coat, but I'll get it.

I still remember making all those sample in sewing classes and in fact that is something I carry over to today. I make samples anytime I am trying a new technique or trying to remember an old one.

I'm pretty nervous about this coat. I used to do all the fancy schmancy sewing stuff, but now it's pretty much just shirts and blouses a decorative pillow here and there. I really hope I end up with something fit to wear. At least I don't have $100 in fabric. Then I would be really nervous. I'll try to get a photo. I'm trying to force myself to keep going on it so it will be ready for winter.

Thanks for the input though guys. I appreciate it.

**quiltergirl** · 09-07-2008, 09:55 AM

Tried a couple of samples yesterday and everything went well. Will get to the coat when my back/neck stop hurting -- spending too much time at the sewing machine aggrevates an old injury. Computer doesn't bother it but the sewing machine gets me every time -- that's why I hand quilt. But I only have four buttonholes to make. After that I only have to put the outer coat and the reversible side (lining) together and I'm pretty much done. YEAH!

**sunshine** · 09-07-2008, 10:00 AM

And THEN you'll post a picture so all of us can see it too

**quiltergirl** · 09-08-2008, 04:16 PM

May I have a drumroll please...................................................

Ta Da!! http://geocities.com/quiltnart/coat.html

**cheapskate 49** · 09-08-2008, 05:31 PM

Really beautiful I love the colours,you might not have sewn for a while but you certainly haven't forgotton how to do it.

**quiltergirl** · 09-08-2008, 06:27 PM

Thank you.

**sunshine** · 09-08-2008, 07:15 PM

Very nice! You did a great job --

**DJ1972** · 09-08-2008, 07:38 PM

Ok, every time I see this thread I read "Bound Buttholes".....maybe because I have a twisted nurse brain or something. LOL
BTW, as you can probably guess, I don't sew, but hope to someday learn.

**quiltergirl** · 09-08-2008, 08:58 PM

Thank you sunshine. I appreciate your help and kind remarks-- you too cheapskate49. The colors are a little more muted in real life and the flowers are not so out there and obvious.

I really needed a new coat. The 1/2 of 1/2 price store where I got my last one -- a $250 coat for $50 went out of business. I'm just glad it ended up being something that I really can wear. I'm keeping my old one for awhile to make sure this one is warm enough (it gets cold here) -- but with the upholstery fabric on the outside and the polar fleece inside it should be.

I like that my friend Joan gave me the outer fabric. I really miss her since she moved. But now when I put on my coat I will think of her.