*Updated* What I'm learning while sewing a blouse

[homesteadmamma]

~That I don't have has much patience has I thought I did.

~That I can't put down the seam ripper. I need it in my mouth so I can use it after ever seam I've sewn.

~That some patterns are too old to make.

~That Style patterns must have gone out with the dinasours. Simplicity and Kwik Sew are the way to go!!

~That I should NEVER have started making a blouse.

~That all dots, seams and darts and tucks don't all line up. If its not the pattern, it MUST be me.

~That I know a few more "choice" words than I normally use.

~That my darling daughter will wear this no matter what she says. Its taken me all this time to make it, she better wear it. Now she will have to ONLY wear it in the house, but still she better wear it.

~That you can learn to sew, but maybe sticking to pj's might be the route to go.

[paelthom]

CJ,
I can't believe that there is something that is driving you crazy. You are my model of calmness.

Hope that mean old blouse straightens up soon.

[canadian gardener]

Old Patterns are designed by elderly evil genius's at work to addle the brains of unsuspecting sewers.

I swear that is why many people quit sewing!

You go to all that effort and OH MY GOODNESS! It has, I made it myself with loving hands and lots of effort, written all over it with every baggy cut and line. For some reason the simplicity company patterns are the absolute worst for fit and style.

I switched to Vogue patterns and then to Kwik Sew for this reason. Vogues look great but are complicated. KWIK SEW is Great fit, PLUS UNCOMPLICATED and looks professional.

Meanwhile, to rescue this effort;

Do the shoulder seams first THEN the collar.

DON't seam the underarm to waist seams and set in the sleeves AFTER. LOL they tell you to do otherwise, but flat construction is way simpler.

Gather fit the sleeves and stitch to the shoulders. IGNORE the markings. Just make sure the right sides touch the right sides and you are stitching right sides to right sides.

When I say gather fit, I mean you stitch a long gathering stitch, and pull it up, till the most of the fabric is eased into the top by the shoulder seam.

Center it. Pin the center of the top of the sleeve to the seam and use the gathers to evenly distribute the fabric of the sleeve top along the seam.

Don't worry too hard if the last 1/4 inch on either side is sticking in or out. Pin and sew.

NOW turn it inside out and put it on dd. Pin fit it for darts etc. Ignore the pattern. Take it in where you need to, and pin fit.

Mark where you need to hem the sleeves, and hem them up or put cuffs on etc.

NOW PIN FIT THE SIDE SEAMS. And sew according to dd's body, allowing a pinch of 1 to 2 inches for ease or wiggle room.

Look at ease for a minute. Simplicity's problem is they allow WAY too much ease, I guess thinking their clients needed extra room for mistakes.

Style if I don't miss my guess is made by Simplicity and the 2 times I tried them, they were just as bad.

[canadian gardener]

After pin fitting the side seams

Sew one long seam on each side from cuff to waist.

IT goes best if you finish the cuff or sleeve hem FIRST then carefully stitch together at the seam, from cuff or sleeve hem down to the waist.

Darts are merely a fitting tool to make excess bagginess go away.

If you want you can make your own, take a safety pin, and pin the excess in the back on both sides of the spine.

Go up and down a ways, and mark with chalk, then sew the darts.

Just keep them even and matching amounts of fabric on both sides of her back bone, and at the same height.

[homesteadmamma]

You mean they still make these dinasour patterns. I can't believe they still make Style patterns. CJ is banging her head against her computer, saying "I can't believe it, I can't believe it".

Good gravy, triangles in quilting are a breeze when I look at this pattern.

btw - Margery, I haven't a clue as to what you just said. Its not you, its me. I need to have it right in front of me to figure it out and then I'm even lost.

Awe but I'm learning!!!

[canadian gardener]

I wish I could draw on the computer. Dh and I are still learning this photo business.

OK you got a blouse.

It consists of 2 fronts, a back, a collar often stretching down into a button band, and 2 sleeves often ending in cuffs or a hem.

You cut it out.

You sew the shoulder seams first so that both fronts are attached to the back.

LEAVE IT AND HAVE A SOOTHING CUPPA TEA!

Come back, breath deep.

Take the collar and attach it and the front band bits.

Now you got a front and back and collar but no sleeves. GOOD

and it's flapping open along the sides. GOOD

More tea, take frequent breaks.

Sew a long running stitch by hand on the top of the sleeves, where they meet the shoulders. This is to gather it a bit and make it easy to sew.

NOW put the sleeves into the shoulders, matching only the center point to the shoulder seam, and the ends of the sleeve to the ends of the shoulders on the blouse, front and back.

Sew them.

Borrow dd after another reviving cuppa tea. Hang this affair on her INSIDE OUT

Grab the side seams and pin fit.

NOw check sleeve length and make some chalk or pin marks to tell you how much to hem up.

Hem sleeves.

Try it on inside out and pin fit the sides.

You don't always need darts. You will need what is called wearing ease which simply means wiggle room.

Sew side seams starting from the sleeve hem or cuff area, and sew in one piece to the hem.

Now try it on her again, right side out. If it looks good, then leave it alone.

If it needs darts due to bagginess that you can't just take in on the side seams, then

grab the excess fabric, front and back on either side of the midline (her spine or belly button depending)

and take a tuck.

A dart is just a tuck that goes to nothing in the stitching. Don't cut it open yet.

Try it on. If it works, cut the dart open and you are done.

[canadian gardener]

It isn't your fault CJ, the instructions on most patterns are crap! I only learnt to sew AND LIKE IT when I started doing Kwik Sew.

With the other pattern companies, I took lots of breaks for screaming!

[homesteadmamma]

Now you tell me Margery. I really think I need something stronger than tea.

I have a problem though. Its almost done!!!!

But I'm going to make another one with this pattern and I'm going to try it like you said. It sure seems like it would be easier that way.

The problem with the Style patterns is this they have hardly any instructions. Note to anyone wanting to sew - check the instructions first before you bring the pattern home, if you can do that. I need instructions that are done well.
And pictures that are go along with the instructions.

[canadian gardener]

ROFL CJ, I am making some cheery cherry brandy offa my cherry tree this summer. If you wanna have a wee snort for medicinal purposes, I will make you some for your sewing cabinet.

Recipe in case you don't get out to see me is:

Cherries, LOTS--put in jars, clean, dry, and follow with

VODKA, LOTS--enough to cover cheery cherries! and a little sugar if I recall correctly.

Basically you are "canning" cold pack style.

Bottle together and cap in jars

Don't can, you just need to have a good seal to keep all the alcohol in.

Let sit and get aquainted with itself.

Recipe courtesy of my dear departed mil who made it whenever she got her hands on some cherrys.

Drink the brandy, eat the cherries

Get cheery!

[SewCrafty]

CJ, I'm so sorry you are having such a time with this pattern. In my opinion blouses are a pain in the butt anyway! Margery is right, Kwik Sew patterns are fabulous to work with.

[Mom23boys]

Hang in ther CJ. I am sure it will turn out beautifully.

[frugalmel]

Don't give up CJ!! You can do this.

[Heather]

I am laughing WITH you not AT you!!!! Just look at all the wonderful things you are learning about yourself!

Have you released the seam ripper from your mouth yet??

[Missy]

I have been there. i make myself a dress with a long duster type jacket. it was a pain in the butt, but once it was done it all made more sense to me than when i was doing it. after that I did a few more clothing items. I love making clothing for the kids.

[homesteadmamma]

I finished the blouse today and I'm thrilled. I even put in a collar. Dd is really pleased with it and it looks for good on her. The blouse cost 25¢ to make.

Here is the breakdown:

- material was B1G1F and this piece of material was the free one
- pattern 25¢ - it was purchased at the thrift store
- lace was sent to me by a village
- buttons I used were taken off an old blouse I had

I'm now going to find some newer patterns and keep going.