Sewing Fleece?

[dz_blonde_girl]

The instructions on this pattern say to stretch the fabric while sewing. I think this would be good is I wanted one of those fancy, rippled hems. but I'm seeing puckery side seams here. I think a little zigzag stitch would be better. Have you sewn clothes from fleece before?

[canadian gardener]

yes and you don't stretch the fabric. The instructions are probably written from a time when some machines only did a straight stitch. Like in the 60's when knits first came out.

Back then it was commen to ask sewers to stretch the fabric as they sewed, so that the straight stitches wouldn't burst when you wore it and the seam stretched with the fabric.

In fact that is how Stretch and Sew got it's name back then.

But shortly after, zig zag stitches became normal, and most forward looking pattern companies began to use a narrow zig zag for most straight seams in knit fabrics.

You still see dinosaur instructions like that, just ignore. Don't stretch anything. Use a narrow zig zag and it will give the necessary stretch in the seam, with no rolling or puckering from stretching.

One other place to stretch one side and sew the other is when you are doing ribbing on neck or cuffs or setting in a sleeve cap on a Tshirt.

You can use the stretch of the ribbing, or the tshirt fabric to your advantage, by dividing the fabric in fourths over the area, and streching the small fabric (body of t shirt --in flat construction, which means side seams are still open when you do this-- to the sleeve so that any puffyness on the sleeve top is softly eased in)

or ribbing, where you divvy it in fourths, and the neck in fourths, pin, stretch and then sew.

Elastic for example is always done this way in order to have nice even gathers. (I cheat, and have a little trick I do there sometimes but I'll tell you later to avoid confusion)

SUM UP: Use a NARROW ZIG ZAG and DON'T STRETCH THE SEAM!

[mylittle4]

Karen your machine has a stretch stitch made to sew knits and stretchy fabrics I think it is no. 3. It really makes a difference if you use it.

[SewCrafty]

I agree with Angelee, you have a new machine right? Look in your manual, you should have a few 'stretch' stitches.

Let us know what you find.

[dz_blonde_girl]

Yep Angelee, it's number 3. I finally found the chart that tells what each stitch is and how long/wide it is and stuff.

I don't always believe everything I read, if it doesn't make sense I like to ask someone.

Mil stopped by today. I showed her my neckband. I asked her about stretchig it when sewing. She confirmed I should have stretched it some, which I didn't do. It looks OK. There's a 1/2 inch or so sort of pucker in the middle of the back. It stands up straight real nice though. She suggested sewing in the ditch to straighten it out.

Tell me more about when to stretch knits. Mil talked about sewing T-shirts too.

[canadian gardener]

you stretch ribbing (the collar and cuff stuff) when you apply it.

Divvy it into 4rths with pins. Do the same with the neck on the Tshirt. Put the 4 pins with the 4 pins.

The ribbing will be too small. Stretch it to fit the neckline, stitching with a narrow zig zag stitch (which wont stretch the ribbing out, it will allow it to suck back in) all the way around.

When you are done, you have a stretchy neck ribbing, that hugs the neck but stretches easily to fit over the head and doesn't gap open.

Coincidentally Tshirts go together first seams being the shoulders, so the front and back are sewn at the shoulders, then you finish the neck with ribbing OR you can use the same Tshirt material to do that.

Then sleeves must be attached, but leave the underarm seam and the side seam till last.

The other area you stretch is the fitting of the sleeves to the shoulder areas leaving the underarm and side seams open while you do the sleeves.

This is called easing. You ease the top of the sleeve (which is a bit bigger) into the shoulder area of the front and back and that is matching a curve with a curve.

Best way is to pin the notches together, and pin the top of the shoulder to the shoulder seam, then pull both till they match up, and stitch.

This ease gives a nice clean shoulder area that puffs out slightly without being gathered.

[dz_blonde_girl]

It makes sense! (hm, no lightbulb smiley) I've got 2 more jammies to make for dd. I'll lyk how it goes. Is there any formula or percent to tell you how much to stretch? I suppose it depends on the particular fabric and you get a feel for it.

[mylittle4]

If you use your stretch stitch you shouldnt have to stretch the fabric itself. This is kind of neat us having the same machine!

[dz_blonde_girl]

It is VERY cool having the same machine as you Angelee. Especially since you're so sweet about answering my stupid questions

I plan on making a very simple knit top today. Shouldn't take too long. I was going to stay up and do it last night, but I was just tired. I want to emblish the fleece one a bit, so I'm going to make this one first to see how it comes out.

[canadian gardener]

I just LOVE sewing knits. They go together SO much more easily than wovens. I am not sure about ratio's, I pretty much followed the charts in the Kwik Sew books and they make you find the percentage of stretch first and they say how much to cut.

I think it's fine to go by eye, you've already figured out what you like in this pattern, so just adjust it up or down depending on how you fine tune it.

Knits are forgiving that way, and aren't too fussy about perfection, but they usually come out looking good even if you had to mess around a bit.

what kind of machine do you two have? Sounds like a lot of fun, and it's great to be able to bounce tips back and forth. I love my Pfaff, but it would have been fun to have another Pfaff owner to brainstorm with.

[dz_blonde_girl]

Here's a link to the machine at WalMart

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...3A90433%3A4770

I've never sewn knit before. I've just about got this top done. I think I'm going to like it!

[canadian gardener]

Oh it's a Brother! Makes sense. Very good name in machines. I checked it out and that is some list of features. You are going to have a long and happy relationship with that machine.

I've had my Pfaff for 21 years this summer, and it's been 21 years of me looking at my machine, it smiles up at me and says' Margery what are we going to make today?. Well you know what I mean.

The machine before used to be my mothers, and that sucker had a terrible attitude. It used to eat cloth right into the feed dogs like a little rabid pit bull sewing machine. I felt like it had a surly personality, smoked imported french cigarettes, and wore cheap cologne and far too much makeup! It definitely hated to work, and was in a permanent state of PMS!

Well at least that's how it felt when I used to try to sew with it.

I tend to personalize my machinery a bit!

[mylittle4]

Personalize all you want I talk to mine. LOL It is a great list of features for the price. I own a brother serger also and that thing is a work horse. Its loud but it will chew through as many layers of whatever I throw at it.