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06-30-2004, 12:49 PM #1Margery Bob
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buying fabric by estimating lengths for certain projects
I wasn't sure how to title this thread, but the concept is the old fashioned "dress length" which is how fabric used to be bought.
You would buy a dress length, and it would be stored till you needed a dress. Most dress styles would be easily cut from it, with the scraps left for quilting or making baby or children's clothing. You could work some more elaborate patterns that needed more fabric by piecing stuff or clever seam placements.
We buy fabric nowadays with a pattern in hand, and buy just what is needed.
But I didn't have my patterns with me in Vancouver last week, nor did I have my usual list of yardages that I need for my favourite patterns in my purse (oooooh slap my wrists).
Normally I recommend that.
I had to consult a similar pattern in the store (which I liked the look of so I bought it, it was 2$)
BUT I was remembering from my childhood when my step gran taught me some very useful lengths to remember.
First of all she taught me that it is VERY important to know where a yard is on your outstretched arms (or a meter nowadays). That way you can measure off, so many yards or meters.
A dress length of 45 inch wide (115 cm) is double the length of the dress (to cut the front and back) plus a sleeve length and a half or 2 sleeve lengths if it's a one way or nap layout. Sleeves can usually be cut dovetailed if it's not a nap layout so they are 1 and a 1/2 times, but you need double if it's a nap layout.
Nap layout is a one way cut, you cut all the bits facing the same direction. Some fabrics look very different up from down, so that is called nap, or directional prints.
In a 54 to 60 inch width it is less. You can usually get the front and back out of the same length, plus the sleeves.
A blouse length works the same way.
Skirts are similar. If your hips are less than 45 inches, you simply add the skirt lenght, a bit for hem, shrinkage and another bit doubled for a waistband.
If you are wider, then double that. 60 inch widths cover most people with room to spare for cutting the waistband off the side. If it's a nap layout add the waistband, plus hem, plus shrinkage.
Bias and princess lines are much more in dresses and skirts.
Can't remember how pants work.
But it is useful to work it all out and memorize a list of yardages.
Add up a little extra for shrinkage or playing room. Margins of error so to speak.
When I bought mine this week, I bought a fair bit extra, for making some additional matching items and because at 2.50 and 5$ a yard it wasn't going to break the bank if I bought an extra 1/2 a yard or more.
And sometimes, when you go to make something up that extra half a yard is the difference between sweating and swearing at the layout or just cutting into it easily.
Cheap at the price.
So I'm going to work out my memorized "dress length" and pants, blouses, skirts and jackets now for 45 inch and 54/60 inch width fabrics which are the commonest widths sold now.
I will free myself up from fabric prison by making sure I have enough, even if I have some left over. I can make handbags, baby outfits for "free" baby shower gifts, aprons etc out of the scraps. Quilts too if that fabric is appropriate.
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