Basic Granny Square Tutorial

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Basic Granny Square Tutorial

Using the following pattern http://www.jpfun.com/patterns/01granny/grannysquare.shtml<B><I>

Basic Granny Square</B></I>

Written by Julie A. Bolduc

The pattern for this square is not my original design but it is the version I have been using for many years. So I thought that I would share this with you. This is the perfect basic granny square pattern to learn how to make granny squares and other motifs with.

<B> </B><B>Materials Needed:</B>

Small amount worsted weight 4ply yarn, any color.
Size G aluminum crochet hook
yarn needle

Ch 4, join with sl st to first ch to form ring.


<B>RND 1:</B> Ch3, 2 dc in rg. Ch 2, *3dc in rg, ch3 should read ch 2 . Repeat from * 2 times more. Ch2, sl st in top of ch3.

<B>RND 2:</B> Sl st in the first 2 dc's and in the first ch 2 lp. Ch3, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch2, work 3 dc in same sp. Work the following 3 times (Ch1, work 3 dc, ch2, 3 dc in next ch 2 lp.) Ch1, join with sl st to top of ch 3.

<B>RND 3: </B>Sl st in the first 2 dc's and in the first ch 2 sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in ch 2 sp, ch 2, work 3 dc in same sp. Ch 1, work 3 dc in next ch 1 sp. Ch 1. Work the following 3 times (Work 3 dc, ch2, 3 dc in next ch 2 sp. Ch 1, work 3 dc in next ch 1 sp. Ch 1.) Join with sl st to top of ch 3.

Work the next rounds exactly the same but work the following into each ch1 sp on each side of square. (Ch 1, 3 dc, ch 1). You can make your granny square as big as you want by adding RNDs. Or you can stop at 6 RNDs to make an afghan out of individual squares. You can also use a different color yarn for each RND of a square for a dazzling effect.

<B>Changing Colors</B>

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To change colors at beginning of each rnd Fasten off after sl st to top of ch3. Leave yarn about 5" long and after square is complete, weave ends into work. Tie on new color in ch 2 lp and proceed onto the next rnd in pattern. For Finishing each square, After sl st into the top of ch 3, fasten off and either weave both ends into work or weave just the starting end into the work and leave the finishing end long to sew the squares together. It depends on what type of effect you want as to what you should do.

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First of all there is a typo in Rnd 1, I made the change in red.

Chain 4

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Slip stitch to first chain to form ring.

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Slip Stitch Completed

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The next part is how to make a double crochet (dc). The first thing is to chain 3, this counts as one double crochet. The chain 3 brings it up in height to what a double crochet will be when completed.

Chain 3, yarn over and insert hook in the center of the ring.

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Yarn over and pull up one loop, 3 loops now on your hook.

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Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, 2 loops remaining on your hook.

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Yarn over and pull through last 2 loops. Double crochet completed.

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The following picture I did in 2 different colored yarns, so you can see the individual stitches and learn what they look like so you can count them. Going from right to left, Chain 3 in white, 1 double crochet in pink, 1 double crochet in white.

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To change colors

Complete the round as we just did above with sl st into the top of the ch 3. To fasten off, ch 1, cut your yarn leaving a 5” tail and pull through the ch 1 you just did.

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Pick up your next color and leave approx. a 5” tail. Make a slip knot in the yarn, place the slip knot on your hook and insert your hook in the next ch 2 space. (This will always be a corner.)

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Yarn over and pull through the ch 2 space and the slip knot on your hook.&nbsp;

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First group of Ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the corner stitch on round 2.

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Round 2: {Sl st in the first 2 dc’s and in the first ch 2 loop.} Only do these steps in { } if you are NOT changing colors each round, if you are changing colors do the steps above to change colors each round.

Attach new color as described above in a ch 2 space, Ch 3, 2 dc in the ch 2 space, ch 2 work 3 dc in the same sp. Work the following 3 times more. (Ch 1, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch 2 space). Ch 1, join with a sl st in the top of beginning ch 3. Fasten off (if changing colors)

You should have 4 corner groups of 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc made.

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In the following picture is round 2 completed. The right arrow is pointing to the ch 1 between the 3 dc groups, this is so you will have a place to work your next group of 3 dc on the next round.

The arrow on the bottom left is pointing to the 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc. This is what makes up your corners in this granny square. You need that ch 2 in the center to define the corner and to have a space to work the next group of 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc for the corner on the next round.

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Round 3: {Sl st in the first 2 dc’s and in the first ch 2 loop.} Only do these steps in { } if you are NOT changing colors each round, if you are changing colors do the steps above to change colors each round.

Attach new color as described above in a ch 2 space, Ch 3, 2 dc in the ch 2 space, ch 2 work 3 dc in the same sp. Ch 1, work 3 dc in the next ch 1 sp, ch 1. Work the following 3 times (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch 2 space, ch 1, work 3 dc in the next ch 1 space, ch 1) Join with a slip stitch to the top of beginning ch 3. Fasten off (if changing colors).

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In the picture below is round 3 completed. The arrow is pointing to the 3 dc group that is done in the ch 1 space of the round below.

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Round 4: {Sl st in the first 2 dc’s and in the first ch 2 loop.} Only do these steps in { } if you are NOT changing colors each round, if you are changing colors do the steps above to change colors each round.

Attach new color as described above in a ch 2 space, Ch 3, 2 dc in the ch 2 space, ch 2 work 3 dc in the same sp. * Ch 1, work 3 dc in the next ch 1 sp twice, ch 1, 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in the next ch 2 space* Repeat between * * 3 times more, ch 1. Join with a slip stitch to the top of beginning ch 3. Fasten off (if changing colors).

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Here is what round 4 should look like. You now have 2 groups of 3 dc between each corner group.