Good luck on your garden. I suggest compost (organic, preferably) and rotating plants each year into different sections of the plots. That's what I do over at my plot. (I also 'rent' a plot in a community garden on township property.)Wow, that is a lot. I have a small plot that I rent from the county. 2016 was not a good year. 2015 was pretty good but the plot had been dormant for a year or more before I got it, so that may explain my luck that first year. I'm going to try doing things differently in 2017. I need to start reading now to get my plan ready. The things I really want are: basil, yellow squash & zucchini, pumpkins, green beans, tomatoes, okra, eggplant, lettuce, chard, peppers. The herb garden seems pretty well established along the front fence: thyme, sage, parsley, chives, dill. You have a good point about the flowers attracting the bees.
Before you do this look into whether or not the grape vines will smother out the fruit trees. In Florida we have a lot of vine type plants that will totally take over the host tree and eventually kill the tree from lack of sunlight and other variances.Buy more grape vines to plant next to my smaller fruit trees..I watched a youtube video where this guy planted grape vines near his newly planted fruit trees in the spring and come late summer the grape vines were climbing up the fruit tree so they don't need a trellis and grew beautiful grapes..hoping for the same results.
Thanks,will check into that.. Almost all my fruit trees are dwarf and semi dwarf not the standard trees..however, my peach trees are roughly 16ft tall because I didn't trim them to keep them semi dwarf.Before you do this look into whether or not the grape vines will smother out the fruit trees. In Florida we have a lot of vine type plants that will totally take over the host tree and eventually kill the tree from lack of sunlight and other variances.
Also factor in the grapes climbing so high as near impossible to pick. Another one is that high squirrels ... and birds... would definitely be in grape heaven.
We raised 200 hens per year for many years - we used roll-away nests. They were wood with angled hardware cloth (heavy screen) floors. The hen would lay an egg on the floor and it would roll downhill on the screen into a separate compartment along the front. The compartment had a hinged lid, you could lift the lid and walk down the line picking up eggs. The eggs stayed clean cuz the chicken droppings fell thru the screen to the floor. And there was a canvas curtain that separated the 'egg' section from the laying section - so the hens didn't get a chance to peck/eat the eggs. There was no bedding (no wood shavings).the benefits to this particular nesting box is that you can take it off the wall and sterilize/clean it ...this is a HUGE PLUS because this will eliminate bacteria & mites from inhibiting in it unlike the ones that I have now that my dh built me that I put pine shavings in them that harbor all these factors..PLUS I have had problems over the years with my chickens eating their eggs...
Thanks Sir for your knowledge and advice. I will tell may husband what you said.We raised 200 hens per year for many years - we used roll-away nests. They were wood with angled hardware cloth (heavy screen) floors. The hen would lay an egg on the floor and it would roll downhill on the screen into a separate compartment along the front. The compartment had a hinged lid, you could lift the lid and walk down the line picking up eggs. The eggs stayed clean cuz the chicken droppings fell thru the screen to the floor. And there was a canvas curtain that separated the 'egg' section from the laying section - so the hens didn't get a chance to peck/eat the eggs. There was no bedding (no wood shavings).
As for mites, etc, they are more likely on the roosts, not the nests. We painted the roosts with creosote each year.