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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
8 October 2010 Wood Chip Mulch 8 October 2010 Wood Chip Mulch

Nine cubic yards of slightly composted wood chip was delivered to my driveway. Cost was 15 dollars per yard. It took a day and a half to dispense in various locations in the yard by wheelbarrow. About five yards was retained for use on the vegetable garden in 2011. The mulch is primarily used to limit loss of moisture due to evaporation, and to inhibit mostly grass growth, also it tends to maintain a constant temperature for various plants in the vegetable garden, and tends to stop rivulets of water from forming during heavy rainfall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You got a good price on that mulch.
The supplier gets it free from the landscaping people. It is the pruning cuttings from various trees. The other types of mulch are $40.00 per yard. This type of mulch is perfect for my purposes. I can get it free from the City, but it is often not partially composted and I have to carry it in the Van , a half a yard at a time.
 

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Around here most people mulch in the Spring. Do you find critters overwintering in your nicely mulched spots? I really never thought about mulching everything, just those things that would be bothered more by major temp changes like roses. Here to learn and you clearly know what works Durgan.:tay:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Around here most people mulch in the Spring. Do you find critters overwintering in your nicely mulched spots? I really never thought about mulching everything, just those things that would be bothered more by major temp changes like roses. Here to learn and you clearly know what works Durgan.:tay:
I am experimenting. It appears no large critters overwinter. Mind you I do scrape the mulch back periodically to disturb any bugs, but I don't have many such, at least I can handle the few that are encountered.

The mulch has to be replaced yearly, since it rapidly decomposes. I have only been using it the last three years, more every year. My view is that it is beneficial and no downside has been encountered, that can be determined.

At first I didn't use it in the vegetable garden, but now I am a believer in using it there. Watering is not necessary in most cases, and the top of the soil is always friable and moist, so cultivation to allow air in is not necessary. I don't really use it for weed control, since I find pulling the few weeds is effortless. Moisture retention by reducing evaporation is the prime reason for using the mulch.

I tried straw, but it was terrible, also bedding chips, but they are too small. The partially decomposed wood chips have an open structure to allow air and moisture penetration, and for the time being appear perfect. They are also readily available and at a reasonable price.
 

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I usually get my mulch from the recycling center, where they do the same thing for free. I certainly don't need 8 yards of it, though.

You might want to rethink your tree mulch placement, though. I've read time and time again that piling up mulch around trees is bad. It reduces the oxygen the roots need. If it's up against the trunk, it can damage the bark and infect the tree. Something to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I usually get my mulch from the recycling center, where they do the same thing for free. I certainly don't need 8 yards of it, though.

You might want to rethink your tree mulch placement, though. I've read time and time again that piling up mulch around trees is bad. It reduces the oxygen the roots need. If it's up against the trunk, it can damage the bark and infect the tree. Something to think about.
My view is sun dried, hard surface soil reduces air into the soil far more than an open mulch. I tend to keep the area around the trunk free to prevent wetness near the trunk. Also if present the mulch is clear of any graft. Any hard pan soil near the surface is essentially dead, and useless to any vegetation.
 
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